FAQs

On larger jobs that will last more than a day or are expected to be more than $2000.00, we do give free estimates.  All other work is performed at time and material.  There is a one-hour minimum charge no matter what.  We currently charge $225 for the first hour, after that it drops down to $176.00 per hour and is billed in quarter-hour increments, plus material and equipment charges. An estimate does not lower your cost, it is essentially you buying insurance that the cost will not exceed a predetermined amount for a defined scope of work, and it must be priced considering worst case scenario.  The greater the unknowns will cause the price to be greater.

We provide contractor grade versions which in most cases are substantially different that the retail versions (even when they have the same model number).  Contractor grade will have higher quality materials and should last longer.  Not only do retail versions fail more frequently, but they can also be difficult to find parts for them when they need to be repaired.

Before You Call for Service:

• Make a list of plumbing problems.
• Try to reproduce the problem – it’s always frustrating if the problem doesn’t happen when the plumber arrives.
• Locate any of the original paperwork to help identify the model and part numbers.
• Group plumbing problems together and make one call.

When Calling for Service:

• Tell them, to the best of your knowledge, exactly what’s wrong when you talk to him on the telephone.
• If the toilet is leaking, tell him it’s the toilet. If it’s the bathroom sink, don’t merely say that “there’s a leak in the bathroom” and expect him to tell you what to do until he gets there.
• There are thousands of brands and tens of thousands of different parts, the plumber can’t be expected to carry them all. So, provide as much information as you can (i.e., size, part, model numbers and previous history etc.).

Before the Plumber Arrives:

• Remove or restrain large pets from area.
• Empty cabinets and sinks where work is to be performed.
• Clear a path to water heater or crawl space entrance.

After the Plumber Arrives:

• Explain what you see as the problem and everything that has been done previously. This will speed up the work and lower your plumbing bill.

Before the Plumber Leaves:

• Inspect the work to ensure what you expected was done.
• Ask questions about this or future projects.

Whole-house shutoff.  Knowing where and how to shut off water for the entire house is prudent for every member of the household to know.  The most important valve in the house is the main shut-off valve for the entire plumbing system. This valve, generally located near the foundation (inside or outside), in the basement or in the garage.  Standard practice has changed over the years, and it depends on the layout of the house.  In some cases, just locating this valve can be a chore.  If you cannot find the valve or if it is inoperable, you should have your plumber install one or replace the valve. For water service leaks (the piping between your house and the water meter), the only way to shut this off is at the valve on the street side of the water meter.  This requires a curb stop or water meter key, which can be picked up at most hardware stores. Whole-house hot-water shutoff. There should be a valve on the cold-water inlet into your water heater.  This controls all the hot water to the house. If there isn’t one on yours, you or your plumber should install one. Toilet shutoff. Look for this shutoff, typically on the wall or floor on the left side of the toilet. Sink shutoffs. These shutoffs usually sit just beneath the sink or within the cabinet or vanity under the sink. The one on the left is usually for the hot water, the one on the right for cold water. Dishwasher shutoff. Look first under the kitchen sink.  Not there? If you have an unfinished basement, look between the ceiling joists just below the appliance. Icemaker shutoff. Look first under the kitchen sink.  Not there? If you have an unfinished basement, look between the ceiling joists just below the appliance.   Possibly, someone hooked up in the crawlspace.  On newer construction the valve is commonly behind the refrigerator. Clothes washer. There should be valves where the house-supply lines meet the washer hoses. Washer hoses are notoriously weak, so always close the valves when leaving home for an extended period.

Before Cold Weather, Prepare

• Make sure that all the garden hoses outside your home are disconnected. Failing to do so can cause not only the hose but also the hose bib to which it is connected, to freeze and be damaged.  This is especially important with “frost free” hose bibs. The hose must be disconnected to make the faucet freeze-proof. Failure to do so will trap water in the faucet body, which then can freeze. If the hose is disconnected, the anti-freeze faucet can properly drain, and this will prevent freezing.

• Water pipes which are exposed to freezing temperatures or drafts should be covered with insulation. Whenever possible it is best to drain systems not being used in severely cold weather. Small water pipes will freeze quicker than waste or sewer pipes.

• Prevent drafts of frigid winter air. Secure all crawl space openings or windows and insulate and caulk any cracks in the structure’s foundation.

• Consider installing specific products made to insulate water pipes like a “pipe sleeve” or installing UL-listed “heat tape,” “heat cable” or similar materials on exposed water pipes. Many products are available at your local building supplies retailer. Pipes should be carefully wrapped, with ends butted tightly and joints wrapped with tape. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for installing and using these products.

During Cold Weather, Take Preventive Action

• Keep garage doors closed if there are water supply lines in the garage.

• Open kitchen and bathroom cabinet doors to allow warmer air to circulate around the plumbing. Be sure to move any harmful cleaners and household chemicals up out of the reach of children.

• When the weather is very cold outside, let the cold water drip from the faucet served by exposed pipes. Running water through the pipe—even at a trickle—reduces the chance of the pipes bursting.

• Keep the thermostat set to the same temperature both during the day and at night. By temporarily suspending the use of lower nighttime temperatures, you may incur a higher heating bill, but you can prevent a much more costly repair job if pipes freeze and burst.

• If you are going away during cold weather, leave the heat on in your home, set it to a temperature no lower than 55ºF.

• Remember that it is energy that precents water from freezing, typically expressed as heat.